Peppers

Peppers

Planting

Soil Preparation:

Peppers like well-drained, loamy, fertile soil. They will also thrive in loose sandy soil, as long as you add enough organic material.

  • If starting from scratch in a new container or raised bed, I like to use a mix of topsoil, composted steer manure, and spaghnum peat moss mixed 33/33/33% by volume.
  • If starting in an established in-ground plot:
    • Dig a hole for the pepper at least 18" deep, and 18" in diameter
    • Mix the soil you removed 33/33/33% by volume with composted steer manure and spaghnum peat moss

For sodic clay soil (Oklahoma) consider mixing in ~1 cup of gypsum pellets per cubic foot of soil.

You can also use perlite or vermiculite to keep soils from compacting.

Starting from seed:

When starting from seed in climates with an annual freeze danger (USDA Zones 2-8), I like to get a jump on the season by starting seeds indoors. I have had decent success with seedling trays and grow lamps, but for my money the best success begins with using an Aerogarden equipped with a seedling tray. Once the freeze or storm danger has passed, follow the steps below in Starting with a Nursery plant.

Starting from cuttings

Starting from a cutting is the ONLY sure way to be certain that the fruit you grow is identical to a plant that you already enjoy. When peppers cross-pollinate they hybridize, so second generation seedlings can produce interesting and unexpected results. Sometimes these are excellent, but often you get something different than you were expecting.

Planting from cuttings is another area where I have had decent success with seedling trays and grow lamps, but for my money the best success still begins with using an Aerogarden equipped with a seedling tray.

Regardless of method, the propagation process is largely the same:

  • Select a good cutting candidate
    • Use a vigorous, disease free plant
    • Select a branch or stem that is actively growing if possible, and is mostly green without being woody.
    • Select a stem that has enough thickness to have good growth energy. The stem relies on stored energy to develop roots and new growth, you need a thick enough stem to support this.
  • Select clean, sharp shears or clippers. Wash them in soap and water, and/or wipe with rubbing alcohol.
  • Cut a 4-6" stem, just below a leaf node (this will become the first area to root). Make your cut at a 45 degree angle.
  • Remove any flowers or active fruits to force the pepper to prioritize growing new roots over reproduction
  • Remove any wilty or problematic leaves to reduce stress
  • Dip ~2" of the stem in water, then in rooting hormone powder.
  • Poke the cutting into your growth medium.
    • If using an Aerogarden, wet the sponge first to make it easier to insert the stem.
    • If using a seedling tray or small planter pot, mix your dirt 50/50 with spaghnum peat moss, and keep it moist (but not soaked). Tamp down the soil firmly so the cutting can support itself.
  • Ideally, take your cutting and set it in growth medium in late summer to early fall, and overwinter the cutting for planting next season.
  • Once the freeze or storm danger has passed, follow the steps below in Starting with a Nursery plant.

From cutting to final planting, I lose 50-75% of the cuttings that I start. To be sure that I will get at least one plant, I typically start 4 new cuttings.

Starting with a Nursery plant

  • Follow the steps above in Soil Preparation to prepare your planting area
  • Dig a hole ~2" deeper than the potted plant
  • Plant the pepper slightly deeper than the surrounding ground level, leave a 1" berm to direct water to the base of the plant
  • Press / tamp the plant around the base of the stem to be sure that it is firmly seated into its new home, and no air pockets remain around the roots
  • Flood the plant with water immediately, to make sure that the dirt settles appropriately, and that the plant settles in and eliminates any residual air gaps

Care

  • Water twice daily in morning and evening. I start with about 1 gallon per plant per watering cycle, and adjust from there.
  • Use stakes and plant tape as needed to support heavy fruiting branches

Stress makes peppers hotter. For hotter peppers, plant them in full sun areas, and use less water. If you like, you can water more heavily in the morning to make sure that the pepper doesn’t get too wilty, and then water less in the evening.

Fertilization

I am a big fan of Fox Farms family of fertilizers. I personally use Big Bloom, Grow Big, and Tiger Bloom, and I stick to Fox Farms Soil Feeding Schedule religiously.

Varietals

  • Chiltepin
  • Wiri Wiri
  • Cherry Bomb / Sonora Hybrid
  • Serrano
  • Jalapeno
  • Thai
  • Mme Jeannete
  • Habanero
  • Ghost (Bhut Jolokia)
  • Carolina Reaper
  • Trinidad Scorpion